Chapter 4 : Pasar Malam Pasar Malam in Ao Nang - How To KRABI Yourself with RM350

Previously in "How To KRABI Yourself with RM350",

Chapter 1 : Senandung Langkawi

Chapter 2 : Hat Yai City to Krabi

Chapter 3 : Bargaining for KRABI's Rooms!

***

Once settled with our check-in, rest for a while, shower and get ready; both of us simply grab our handbags and heads out. Mostly when others would check the beach or the Ao Nang street first, we went to check further away from the beach - the Muslim neighborhood. 

Malaysian in Krabi 

Krabi, Thailand is merely 816 KM away from our beloved Kuala Lumpur city, Malaysia. If you flew in via air (I'm refering to airplanes though), it will only take you about 1 hour and a half to reach Krabi International Airport. Unless there is someone who open the plane's door during the take off  - you eshould xpect some delay. Perhaps arrives the day after, due to delays, security check and investigations. If you want to drive, it is merely 18 hours journey if you could start your car. Or else may be years depending to your physical strength to push the car all way through. Malaysia Boleh would be the personal slogan. 

Hence, it is not something new when one Malaysian stays in Ban Ao Nang for her first time especially over the weekend and get a little bit confuse whether she did cross the international border or not. Trust me, it will be pack with Malaysian'plate numbered cars! 

Travel hacks : Like any tourist destination hot spot, it is wise not to travel and stay over the weekend in Krabi. Not only it will be pack with the local Thais, but also with neighboring country i.e Malaysia. Most of them are from the northern part like Perlis, Kedah, Kelantan and Terengganu. However, during this trip, I came to my realization that some Malaysian are really a group of adventure-seekers! I came across with a convoy of 8 Malacca-numbered plate cars. When I thought the journey from Kuala Lumpur to Ao Nang is tiring enough, Malacca - Ao Nang is just beyond my expectation. Moving forwar, the only way for me to be amazed and WOW at other fellow Malaysian travelers' adventure would be by "mengensot" or dragging yourself on the side while laying down all the way up north to Ao Nang. Other mode of transportation and journey should only be classified as average thrill! 

Halal Food in Krabi 

Due to this matter, and also to add that most Thai's Muslims call the southern regions as their home; it is not a shock that you could easily get Halal food in Krabi. There are dozens and dozens halal stalls and restaurants that offers variety of local delicacies along the Ao Nang Street. However they are certain restaurant do serve alcoholic beverages through a third-party bar. 

Halal food stalls near Krabi Resort
Credit to Nina Jasmine

Like any other tourist destination, in any part of the world; when there is a lot of tourist; the prices of goods will hike up to the mountains and beyond. For instance in Bali for example, the rent of sun-bathing lounge chair is  35,000 Rupiah while the tourist will be paying up to 100,000 Rupiah. A pack of Thai mango would cost only 20 Baht for locals or 70 Baht for the tourist. So for those who could speak the country's mother tongue, it is an additional advantage in order to enjoy the local rates. If only the face features are more less the same with the locals tho. Or else, you need to master another skills to get the 50 Baht discount for the mango, Special Effect Make Up. Yeah right, the Thais would believe a Nigerian black guy who can only speak "Sawadikarp" as their fellow Thai national!. (Even funnier if the black guy has Irish red hair, Indian almond shape eye and Native-American strong cheekbones - trying to blend in and bluff everyone that he is a local Thai)

Hence, it answer a lot of questions when you receive the bill for two with the amount of 280 Baht. Holding the bill with one hand while the other hand pat your forehead while your eyes glance back and forth between the bill and your 2 empty plates of Thai fried rice and 2 half-full glasses of fresh fruit juice. Some may say "well, it is only 280 baht, pay it up and don't be so scrooge about it". With the current currency exchange rate, 280 baht means you are paying around RM 35.00. 

Travel hacks : It is wise to bring a lot of your packed food or canned food like sambal ikan bilis, maggi for example (whiskers or pedigree if you find those type of canned fod tasty). Especially when you are in a very limited budget and going to stay for a long period of time. Or else, continue reading!

Muslim Neighborhood 

Many of us didn't realize the existence of a Muslim community in Ban Ao Nang area. Well, I didn't blame you when there is a continuous parade of Victoria Secret models in 2-piece-bikini during the day, all over the places. (rolling eyes) Okay fine, that statement is a bit exaggerated. Basically it is a parade of highly-confident-tourists with muffin-tops-at-the-hip parading 2-piece-Brazilian-bikini. Once a while, a Michelin-tyre mascot will join in a slow motion and blend with the rest of these muffin-tops wearing dark-colored brazillian bikini. Those bikini top that have 2 triangular shape that only cover those nipples. To find one Victoria-Secret-model-type is not even close to the phrase "finding a needle in a haystack" but more like "finding one in the whole barnyard!" Nevertheless, love the confident especially when they hop with joy like a 10-year-old school kid while singing loudly, "all about the bass".

Red Star is our guest house location.
Red circle is basically the Muslim neighbourhood
Blue Star is the Ao Nang Walking Street

Travel hacks : This Muslim neighborhood located about 850 metres from the beach and less bikini-clad bodies walking around. The main centre of the neneighborhoods the Ao Nang Mosque, with a Muslim cemetery adjacent to it. The easiest landmark for this neighborhood to find the Ibis Styles Krabi Ao Nang next to the cemetary. 

Walking from our guest house to the neighborhood is actually  about 45 minutes.  Well, what do you expect when you have 2 girls who love-to-shop-yet-don't-have-enough-money-to-buy-a-souvenir walking by pass shops after shops. We may not have enough money but that doesn't mean we can not go in and pretend to have a lot of it! We even bargain for a beautiful painting from 4300 Baht to 3000 Baht and then asked "do you accept Visa?" when we already saw the sign, 'Cash Only' before entering the gallery. Along the walk, you will by pass a Starbuck, McDonald's and a hotel name Vogue Hotel & Resort (in exact sequence) on your left while a row of clubs, massage centres and seafood restaurant on your right. 

Ao Nang Mosque's Food Stalls

There are 2 mosque in Ban Ao Nang (please don't get confuse!) The one that located in the neighborhood is the Ao Nang Mosque, which is located 1 KM from the beach.

Ao Nang Mosque with its row of street food stalls 

Once the sun set, there will be a row of halal stalls owned by Muslim owners that give your cheap and delicious food! If the halal stalls next to Krabi Resort by beach only offer pancakes, various fried rices and noodles; the stalls in front of Ao Nang Mosque offer a bit of middle east and Asian flavours. You can find seafood satay, Japanese-style shiitake mushroom gill, Thai's adaptation of Malaysian-yong-tau-foo steamboat, Persian Kebabs, adaptation of Indian's Beriyani and mussels pancake. When both of us went there last week, there is nothing above 50 baht. I repeat, nothing above 50 baht if you order for 1 items. You can't expect to order 10 meals and pay only 50 baht. 

Travel Hacks : Most of the food stalls only open during the night after Maghrib prayers. Dress appropriately and wear a flip flop - anything that scream only the word comfortable. Not because the evening breeze is a bit chilly, but it just going to be so awkward when the locals aunties coming out from the mosque after the Isya' in telekung while you in mini skirts and bikini top. Trust me, the aunties will definitely get back inside and continue with any other prayers. Qiamullail all the way to Subuh Farj. If it is the Michelin-type-wearing-the-bikini-top-only, the aunties devote another 2 years inside the mosque. 

Ao Nang Walking Street 

There are 2 Walking Street in Ao Nang. Don't get confuse with Catalunya Walking Street and Ao Nang Walking Street. Catanlunya is the night market that is quite modern located near the beach. The one with the Greek statue in the middle of it. While Ao Nang Walking Street is located at Soi Ao Nang 11/1, approximately 1.15 KM from the beach.

This is Cantalunya Walking Street.
I' ill share with you readers, in Chapter 6

Ao Nang Walking Street

Ao Nang Walking Street is actually a night market located within the Muslim neighborhood. It only open for business during the night. Until to date, I still wonder myself, why the night market in Malaysia and Thai only open during the evening.  Please don't expect it to be a massive one like the one we have in Putrajaya Prescint 2 or Jalan TAR. There is only 15 to 20 stalls maximum and half of it selling foods! Cheap and delicious local delicacies! But I'm not pretty sure whether it is open every night or on specific night. In fact I've tried to Google for the information also not available! 

Soi Ao Nang 11/1 - Ao Nang Night Market. 

It was here when we finally able to find something to eat after almost 1 hour 30 minutes of window shopping. Mussels Pancake. It was basically mussels, eggs (who doesn't love eggs, right girls?), flour and some chili powder. At first both of us really thought it was a mere scramble eggs or telur dadar Reading the board it stated the price is 40 Baht. So I was basically frowning my eyebrows and said to myself, "Did he use a golden egg for the scramble?" After seeing the guy cooked the pancake that I'd realized that I was wrong! Indeed it taste so delicious with a bit of Kimball chili sauce!

The guy is actually a Thai national but can speak a fluent bahasa Malysia
psssst he look a bit like Kamal Adli, a Malaysian actor.

The 35 Baht Mussels Pancake
Yummmy!!

Travel hacks : Malaysian being Malaysian. Night market food is simply the best! Right? 

Expenses

Pancakes    = 40 baht

McParfait   = 45 baht

Total       = 85 baht

Balance    =  Thai Baht 881 and RM38.00

Another 2 nights to go! 

***

Next : Chapter 5 : Psssst Private Beach - How To KRABI Yourself with RM350.

Chapter 3 : Bargaining for KRABI's Rooms! - How To KRABI Yourself with RM350

Previously in "How To KRABI Yourself with RM350",

1. Chapter 1 : Senandung Langkawi
2. Chapter 2 : Hat Yai City to Krabi

*** 

Krabi Bus Station

Both, Eeman and I; was asleep when the Executive Coach arrived in Krabi Bus Station. A navy sailor who sit next to our row wake us up and informed that we had arrived at our destination. Imagine this, a hot sailor wake you up from your nap and inform you had arrived in KRABI, the adrenaline rush is like both of us flying all over to the stars, moon, outer space, a different dimension and back! 

Eeman said to me, "Babe, we arrived babe! I can't wait the ocean breeze, sun-bathing under the hot warm sun and jump into the ocean!" We basically grab our handbag, put on shades, wear our head scarf and slip into our flip flop. I even brought out my lace-umbrella (purposely bought in KL to have the romantic ambiance while enjoying the sunset). We ran out of the bus, I'm screaming "Laut Eeman Laut - Cepat!" while I could hear Eeman scream, "Yeah!!!" out of her lung!

Krabi Bus Station

Boy oh boy, our joy crushed within  less than a mili-second. There is no beach, no warm summer sun, no ocean cool breeze. The bus already took off and out of desperation and feeling being cheated, "Damn, that navy really troll us up babe! I think this is the city between Trang and Krabi. This is not even Krabi!". I could see Eeman show her disappointment and we thought, How could we survived and bought another ticket from this city to Krabi with this kind of budget!

Helplessly, we drag ourselves and bags to the ticket counter and politely ask, "How much? Here to Krabi?". Eeman already activate her bargain mode, regardless what ever the amount being told for the ticket, she will start bargaining. That is our hacks in bargaining skills. The lady behind the counter answer, "here Krabi?" and resume with her duties. Desperately waiting and need an answer, I ask again and being given the same reply! I about to raise my voice and ask again when a Caucasian lady approach us and said, "honey, this is Krabi" and our mouths' jaw drop instantly. "Then why the lady didn't tell us we already in Krabi? Why does she keep on repeating our question?" I asked while pointing towards the ticket lady. The ticket lady point down as indication of "here" and said, here, Krabi". We forgot that most locals don't speak English fluently. Bugger. We had become the most smart backpacker to the most bimbo beyond Paris Hilton and Nicole Ritchie!

Travel hacks : As most Thais is not fluent in english, it is best that we Malaysian didn't carry on with our Malaysian'-style of communicating. You know, the one with lets-chat-while-all-eyes-glues-to-the-smart-phones-screen. It is best to do how the normal people chat those days; face each other, look into the eyes, short sentences and read body language. Body language is the key to ensure that both parties of communicating, you and the locals; are basically on the same page. 

Apparently according to Lynette, a Dutch who travel around Asia with her not-so-gorgeous-as-the-tourist-information-counter-officer-in-Hat-Yai Dutch boyfriend; the beach is located in Ban Ao Nang and it is about another 15 minutes top ride by Tut Tut from the bus station. She even told us that the beach is hardly 18 miles further from the city. I do believe that she even heard that before hand, I suggest to Eeman we walk to the beach area and enjoy the sigh seeing. 18 miles of walking with our bags - once done with the adventure definitely I will win any marathon in Kuala Lumpur! Again, another bimbo image being portrayed to the Dutch couple. (cry) 

Travel hacks : In Thai, the word "BAN" mean Beach. Krabi's most popular beach is call Ban Ao Nang, but it is a bay actually. Located about 18 miles and has some 83 islands scattered around. There are 4 other beaches in Krabi, Ban Noppharat Thara, Ban Railay, Ban Pra Nang and Ban Tubkaak. Ban Ao Nang basically being classified as the most developed beach attraction in Krabi. Hence, if you are not going to be camping in a tent, Ao Nang it is!

Getting to Ban Ao Nang

The presence of "ulat" in Krabi Bus Station remind me to Hat Yai bus station and railway station, but the numbers are not as many. We did asked for the rate from Krabi Bus Station to Ban Ao Nang to few taxi drivers and "ulat" (the word taxi is for the mini van). 3 drivers out of 4 informed us the rate is between 350 to 400 baht while the fourth informed us, "one-hundlet-baht". Suspiciously we asked again, he tell the same amount and take out his hand and show us FOUR fingers. We just smile and said, "That's FOUR not one"

Travel hacks : In order to go to Ban Ao Nang in the cheapest way possible (other than walking 18 miles) is actually by taking the government's tut tut. The fare is only 60 baht per passenger. The locals call it as "SHARING". That is the keyword, asked for "Tut tut SHARED" . It is a bit bigger than the normal tut tut that we usually see in Hat Yai or Bangkok. It could accommodate up to 8 passengers sitting next to each other. The tut tut will go around the city for a while while looking for other passengers. Don't expect it to go straight away to Ban Ao Nang from the bus station.

Remember, it is 60 baht! If they charged you a higher amount, simply walk away.

During our ride, there are 12 person all together. 8 seated, 3 standing at the back of the vehicle while one sit in front next to the driver. Luckily there  roller-blades is not popular in Thailand nowadays (I guess?!) or else the tut tut driver will ask them to hold on to the tut tut's railing. Like what we did before, in the early 90's during the roller-blade craze with bicycle. 

The driver will drive the tut tut to the Ban Ao Nang via Ban Noppharat Prata road. Along the way you could see dozens and dozens of Tsunami Evacuation Centre sign-age in every 100 metres. This also will be shared later in a different chapter!

Hunting for Rooms! 

We arrived and get out from the tut tut basically at 5.30pm Thursday 15th January 2015. If the journey was delayed for another hour, it will be a complete 24 hours journey from the moment I get out from my house! A lot of readers ask me why I choose to travel by land when I could easily took a flight to Krabi.

Once I did read somewhere in the internet, most flights will arrives in beach locations and cities before late evening. Hence, we simply assume that due to this matter, we could easily walk in into any guest house and start the bargain wars for the room rates. And indeed it works!

Travel Hacks : Once we arrived at the Ban Ao Nang street, first thing first that we did is actually scout the location. Do a bit of logistic. Here are the checklist step : 

• Go to the beach and look around. Where is the main entrance and staircase to the beach. That will be the focal point and and it will be pack during the day. 
• Find a halal restaurant first. As you know there are alot of halal restaurant along the beach. The price range for a plate of Pad Thai is mostly between 70baht to 90baht. Choose a restaurant that offer the cheapest meal!
• Once you have choosen your favourite halal restaurant, then start to look around in a 360 spin. Look out for GUEST HOUSE / HOSTEL. Walk in and ask for the availability and rate!  

How to Bargain?

Travel Hacks : In order to bargain for room rates you need to have 2 players! In our adventure it is Eeman and myself. One will play the good customer while the other one will be the bad customer. The Good customer will start to ask for the availability. If there is availability, then he or she will continue to ask for the rate for a night. Regardless any amount the reception person said, the partner aka bad customer will step in and simply ask, "cheaper can?". Keep on bargaining another one or two time. Sensing the reception personal is almost annoyed, the good customer or me; will jump in and said, "sorry, we going to stay long time. 2 weeks. what your best rate?"

We did use this genius script and wallah! We managed to get our room for 500 baht per night instead of 700baht, deposit 300baht returnable once check-out. However, we inform the guest house manager that we will be paying on a 3 days basis. During your third day check-out simply pack your belonging and inform them that you need to go back to Kuala Lumpur for a family emergency. Kindly apologized, give your best smile and ask nicely for your deposit. (smart right?) 

Marina Guest House

Marina Guest House located above a massage centre in Ao Nang Street and it is about 150 meters from the beach's main staircase. Well it is a real genuine massage centre, not the hanky panky ones with happy endings. The payment counter of the massage centre also double as the guest house's reception. There are 3 floors upstairs and each floor has 3 rooms and a shared toilet. Its very clean indeed and the toilet is a personal one like those we usually find in a shop-house designs in Malaysia. Flush-seated toilet, hot shower, a sink and towel rack. The toilet space is quite big though, believe me, I danced  zapin during my shower, so it is big!

There is a shop renting out motorbikes beside Marina Guest House.
2 rows of colorful bikes to welcome you before you reach the guest house

The room is not as fancy as Singapore St Regis but trust me, it is very clean and comfortable. For the rate of 500 baht per night, the room provide you with the basic amenities : 2 single beds, 2 fans, a towel rack, and 2 electrical sockets. 

This is me. Not the "Amah"

A personal balcony at the end of the floor as the smoking area and where you got to hand your clothes dry. Wifi connection are available in the sitting area. he connection is quite fast, even faster than some Unifi's speed in certain areas back home. And by having the connection only in the communal area actually give us an opportunity to mingle with other travelers, exchange notes, play games and selfie with the gorgeous one and try to make friends back home jealous after you upload it
 in your instagram account! 

The view from our balcony aka smoking area.
Overlooking the ocean

Travel hacks : Unlike in Malaysia, the electrical sockets in Thailand is complete different. It is a 2 pin socket and the size ois a bit smaller. Hence, if you  never been to Thailand before, it is wise for you to buy one. The electrical pin is available at most stalls along the Ao Nang street for 100 baht. However, if you go to any 7 Eleven or Family Mart nearby you can buy one only for 49 baht!

The 49 bath electrical pin. 

There are alot of budget hostels and guest houses in Krabi, Ban Ao Nang especially. Therefore, if you ask me which one provide the cheapest rate with high value, every single one does. If you follow the checklist and the correct method of bargaining, trust me, you will be staying in a place where you could easily call it as, My Krabi Home.

Expenses

Tut Tut     = 60 baht

Room       = 750 baht

Total       = 810 baht

Balance    =  Thai Baht 1094 and RM38.00

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Next : Chapter 4 : Pasar Malam Pasar Malam in Ao Nang - How To KRABI Yourself with RM350.